We went to Betws-y-Coed at the end of August, bank holiday weekend, right at the tail end of the school holidays. It was me, my wife and our two-year-old daughter, and we met my mum, her partner, my brother, sister-in-law and their two kids there. Eight of us across three generations, ages ranging from toddler to grandparent. We stayed three nights. The rest of the family stayed the full week.
How we booked
We put it together ourselves. The house was booked through Airbnb and everything else we just figured out as we went. The only thing we booked in advance was Zip World, and I would strongly recommend doing the same. It was bank holiday weekend and everywhere was rammed. We tried to get a table for dinner on the Saturday night and could not get in anywhere because we had not booked. If you are going during school holidays or a bank holiday, book your evening meals ahead. We learned that one the hard way.
Getting there
We drove up from the northwest of England. Straightforward route, no issues. The house is on Llanrwst Road, just outside the village, so easy enough to find. If you are coming from further afield, the nearest train station is actually in Betws-y-Coed itself on the Conwy Valley line from Llandudno Junction, which is a scenic ride, but with a group our size and all the stuff we brought, driving was the only realistic option.
Where we stayed
The house was called Bron Celyn, a large detached property on Llanrwst Road that sleeps ten. Each bedroom has its own bathroom, which was a big deal with that many people. There is a large kitchen with everything you need, a proper dining room, a lounge, a playroom for the kids, and TVs everywhere. It has a washer dryer, an electric car charger outside and space for about three cars on the drive.
I want to be honest about the condition. It is a nice house and it is clear that not too long ago it was probably stunning. But it has taken a battering. There are cracked and broken tiles on some of the floors, the decorating is showing its age, and the building itself needs a bit of repair work in places. None of that stopped us having a great time. It is comfortable, spacious, well equipped and does the job for a big group. But if you are expecting pristine, manage your expectations.
The location is almost right but not quite. It is about a 15 to 20 minute walk into the village, which would be fine except the nice scenic path into town has been closed for construction. A neighbour told us it has been shut for years. So you end up walking along the road, which is not dangerous but is not particularly pleasant either. We drove in most days. Parking in the village runs about £5 for a half day or £8 for the full day. Not outrageous but it adds up over a few days.
The house cost us somewhere between £1,000 and £1,500 for the week. Split between the group that works out well for the amount of space you get.
What we did
Betws-y-Coed sits right on the edge of Eryri (Snowdonia) at the point where the River Llugwy and the River Conwy meet. The village itself is small and very pretty. Stone buildings, old bridges, outdoor shops everywhere, a good handful of pubs and cafes, and the Llugwy running right through the middle of it all.
We spent the first day just exploring the village. There are outdoor clothing shops on every corner, a few bakeries, pubs with tables outside, and a sweet shop which I was excited about because I am basically a big kid. It was a massive let down. Overpriced and underwhelming. Skip it.
We went for a swim in the Llugwy, which was brilliant once you got past the initial cold. The water is clean and clear and there were a few other people in, which made it feel like a proper communal thing. If you are the type who likes wild swimming, bring your stuff. It is one of the best free things to do here.
There are walking routes signposted on an info board in the village. Half hour loops, couple of hours through the woods and along boardwalks, and longer half-day routes around the lakes. We did not do any of the longer ones because we had a two-year-old and other young kids with us, but we had a good explore on foot and the scenery even on a short walk is excellent.
One day we drove to Zip World, which is actually walkable from the house in about 15 minutes. Our daughter did the Tiny Trek, a mini treetop course for under-fives with little zip lines and obstacles. It was really cute and she loved it. A few of us did the Fforest Coaster, which is basically an alpine roller coaster on rails through the woodland. You control your own speed and you get three runs per ticket. Good fun. Not cheap though. It came to about £200 for four adults and two kids, plus £3 per car for parking. Worth doing once, but book online in advance because it sells out on busy days.
We also did a day trip to Llandudno, about 45 minutes by car. My brother and I used to go there as kids so it was pure nostalgia. The place has barely changed. We walked down the pier, did the arcades, ate fresh doughnuts and ice cream on the beach, watched a Punch and Judy show, and the kids had a paddle in the sea. The swimming was fairly grim to be honest but the kids did not care. It is a classic British seaside day and if you have got children it is well worth the drive.
On the way back from Llandudno we stopped at Tu Hwnt i'r Bont, a tearoom in Llanrwst that dates back to the 1480s. It is a National Trust building covered in Virginia creeper, sitting right on the River Conwy next to the old Pont Fawr bridge. The building is genuinely beautiful. The cakes are about £10 a slice but the slices are enormous, easily enough for two or three people. The tea and coffee are good. And because we are a water family, we all ended up having a paddle in the river afterwards. It is one of those places that looks almost too perfect to be real. Highly recommend stopping in.
After we left, the rest of the family stayed on for the week. They went fishing, took a canoe out on one of the nearby lakes and had a paddle about. Plenty to fill a longer stay if you have the time.
Where we ate and drank
This is where I have to hold my hands up. We did not plan well enough.
On the Saturday night we ended up at the Eagles Hotel in Llanrwst for a carvery because we could not get a table anywhere else. It was bank holiday weekend and we had not booked. The food was fine. Plentiful, decent enough, and the place itself is a big old pub-hotel with loads of parking and plenty of room for a large group. But it was not memorable. It did the job.
The village has a good spread of pubs and cafes. We had drinks in a couple of the pubs and they were all friendly and atmospheric, especially on a busy weekend with the place full of walkers and families. The bakeries in the village are worth a visit for a morning pastry and coffee.
If you are self-catering, and with a group this size you probably will be, the big thing to know is that there are no large supermarkets nearby. Betws-y-Coed has a Spar and a Londis. There is a Co-op in Llanrwst about five miles away. But for a proper big shop, the nearest Tesco is at Llandudno Junction, a good 25 to 30 minute drive. Do your big shop before you arrive. We did not, and the midweek run to the supermarket ate into the day more than it should have.
What it cost
The house was between £1,000 and £1,500 for the week, split between the group. Parking in the village adds up at £5 to £8 a day. Zip World was about £200 for our lot. Eating out is standard pub and cafe prices for a tourist village in North Wales, so not cheap but not outrageous. Tu Hwnt i'r Bont is more expensive than a normal bakery but the portions justify it. Overall it felt like reasonable value, especially with the house split between multiple families. The main hidden cost is driving everywhere because the village is small and the best day trips are 30 to 45 minutes out.
The verdict
I really liked it. Betws-y-Coed is a properly pretty place with a great outdoors feel, and the Conwy Valley is stunning. For a multi-generational trip with young kids it worked well. There is enough to fill three or four days without anyone getting bored, and if you are staying a full week the longer walks, the lakes, Llandudno and the Zip World activities give you plenty of options.
A few things I would do differently. Book restaurant tables in advance, especially on bank holidays. Do the big food shop before you arrive. And if you are staying at Bron Celyn, know that the walk into town is along the road, not the scenic path, so factor in driving and parking.
Who would I recommend it to? Families with young kids, groups booking a big house together, anyone who likes walking and being outdoors, and anyone who wants a slower pace without having to go abroad. It is not a nightlife destination and it is not a city break. It is a village in a valley surrounded by mountains, rivers and woodland, and if that is what you are after, it does it very well.
It was end of the summer holidays when we went and the place was packed. I enjoyed the buzz and the atmosphere but if crowds are not your thing, go midweek or outside school holidays. The village is small and on a bank holiday weekend it fills up fast.