When I finished the Camino de Santiago, the Camino Frances variant, after 780 km in 32 days of walking from France to Santiago de Compostela, I didn't imagine that, beyond the landscapes, the blisters, and the long walks, the most transformative aspect would be the people I would meet.
During the almost five weeks of my journey, my way of relating to others changed as much as the landscape itself. I went through all the stages, from initial solitude to more intimate connections with people who, until a few days before, were complete strangers.
The First Week: The Beginning of a New Adventure
I started alone in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a picturesque village on the French side of the Pyrenees. I had that mixture of nerves and excitement that is common before embarking on a long journey.
I didn't know anyone when I arrived at the pilgrim hostel, and yet, not a single night had passed before I had already started meeting people. I didn't know it yet, but these people would become my life companions.
The first day is one of the most demanding on the Camino, including crossing the Pyrenees to reach Roncesvalles (already on the Spanish side).
I took the Napoleon Route. It was around 24 km and took me roughly 8 hours, including stops. It was a demanding first day, mainly because of the elevation gain, but the scenery made it worthwhile.
That night I met Edurne, a girl from Barcelona, and Paco, from Extremadura, two Spaniards traveling separately who, like me, were walking this legendary route for the first time. Later, they were joined by Daniela, an energetic girl from Brazil who spoke excellent Spanish, and Isa, also from Barcelona.
And so our small Spanish-speaking group was born, with whom I shared laughter, drinks, anecdotes, impromptu meals, and my first blisters.
During that week, we walked almost always together, as a group, looking out for each other and celebrating each arrival as a small shared victory.
A Special Note on Blisters
One of the main problems on the Camino is blisters. Ideally, you should prevent them, because once they appear, there's little you can do to relieve the pain.
Some recommendations you should keep in mind are:
Wear good socks and keep them dry.
You can use talcum powder to keep your feet dry.
Using creams or vaseline to protect your skin also helps.
Your shoes should fit comfortably. Remember, you'll be walking for many hours over a long period.
Always carry a small first-aid kit to treat them as soon as they appear.
The Second Week: Opening Up to the World
As the days went by, things started to change. I was already eager to branch out a bit from the group. It turned out that, because of the comfort of speaking the same language, we were too closed off among ourselves, and we weren't making room for other pilgrims from other parts of the world. And the truth is, the Camino is too diverse to just stick to the first people you meet.
There were many other pilgrims, whom we also ran into at the same hostels, in the bars of the villages, or during rest breaks. Most of us had set off on the same day from France, so we already recognized each other with a smile or by saying "Buen Camino!" (Have a good Camino!).
Then, after a week where we did everything together, our group began to open up to new pilgrims of other nationalities. I started sharing stretches of the Camino with people from Italy, France, Taiwan, Australia, South Africa, and other countries around the world.
The conversations were now more in English than in Spanish, but that didn't matter. What truly mattered was the human connection we were creating.
That mix of cultures and ways of experiencing the Camino gave the experience a new dimension; each person had their own story, their own motivation, and their own way of understanding the journey.
The Third Week: Rediscovering Myself
After two weeks of always walking with others, my mind began to crave silence. I felt the need for time for myself, to listen to my own thoughts and enjoy the rhythm of the Camino without distractions.
I experienced that third week more as a balance between the group and solitude. I decided to walk long hours alone, sometimes listening to music or the voices in my head, but in the afternoon, upon arriving back at the hostel, I would rejoin the group.
Between us we shared dinners, stories and good times. Sometimes I needed my space, but I didn’t want to lose that sense of community that the Camino had given me.
This third week was more about introspection, about looking inward, but without completely isolating myself from the rest of the group.
I learned that on the Camino, as in life itself, there are times when we want to share and others when it's good to connect with ourselves.
The Final Days: The Desire to Not Want It to End
By the fourth week, I started feeling strange, kind of sad but happy at the same time. As we approached Santiago de Compostela, my tiredness mingled with melancholy. I knew that most of my fellow pilgrims would return to their countries, to their routines, and that this special group would disperse.
That's why, during that last week, my needs shifted completely; I no longer wanted to be alone. I longed to walk with someone, to share the final kilometers, the last conversations, the last rests. I began to say goodbye in advance to some pilgrims who I knew would be taking a bus or a flight the next day upon arriving in Santiago.
When I reached the Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago de Compostela, it was a mixture of joy and nostalgia. I had not only physically reached the end of the Camino, but also the closing of a personal chapter.
I left my backpack at the Santiago KM0 Hostel, a private accommodation this time, and we went with the others to pick up the Compostela at the Pilgrim's Office.
The Compostela is a certificate received after walking more than 100 km. It has no monetary or practical value, beyond being a memorable souvenir. That's why many choose to begin the Camino de Santiago from Sarria, the first point at that distance.
You can also choose to attend the Pilgrim's Mass at the Cathedral, where the priest always says a few words about the importance of the Camino de Santiago.
I stayed about three nights in Santiago because there's so much to see, and it's a beautiful city if the weather is nice.
The group gradually dispersed. We had farewell meals and outings, and in the end, I found myself just as I was at the beginning...alone, but with invaluable memories and connections that will last forever.
Finisterre
There's the option, if you're up for it, to continue walking for a few more days to reach Finisterre, on the Atlantic coast. I didn't continue, as the weather was very bad those days, and it rained all the time, but if you have the energy, it's a good addition to give the adventure a definitive end.
Final thoughts
I never would have imagined, when I was planning how to do the Camino de Santiago, that its true essence wouldn't be in the path itself, but in the people I would meet along the way.
You can start alone, but the Camino itself takes care of bringing you together with whomever you need at each moment. Sometimes to share a stretch, other times to teach you something, or simply to remind you that we are never truly alone in this world.
The Camino Francés is a good choice if you enjoy meeting people, sharing meals and having conversations with other pilgrims. It is a very social route, and it's easy to meet the same people repeatedly as everyone follows roughly the same stages.
But if you're one of those who wants to be alone and avoid socializing or looking for a hiking experience where you can spend most of the day alone, this might not be the best option. You can certainly walk by yourself, but there is always a strong social atmosphere around the route and the albergues.
Things to keep in mind about doing the Camino de Santiago, French Way in October
In terms of weather, October can be divided into two phases. During the first half of the month, especially at the beginning of the route, the warm, sunny days of summer tend to persist. However, in the second half of the month, as we approach Galicia, temperatures not only begin to drop, but the likelihood of rain and wind increases. I literally spent the last week wearing a poncho.
It's a transitional month, when the peak season is ending but shops and accommodations are still open. Furthermore, as a positive point, the number of pilgrims is decreasing, making it easier to find accommodation.
Where to sleep while doing the Camino de Santiago
Each town or city usually has a good selection of accommodation, but the municipal hostels for pilgrims are, in my opinion, the best place to experience the spirit of the Camino.
Not only are they the most economical, between 10 and 20 euros per night, but they're also where you'll meet the most people.
Some have a rich history, like the one in Roncesvalles, which was a former medieval hospital, or in Pamplona, where you can sleep in the old Church of Jesus and Mary, a 15th-century temple.
Municipal hostels cannot be booked in advance, so you should arrive early if you want a place. Other accommodations do accept reservations.
Cost
Estimating the cost of the Camino de Santiago is difficult because it depends entirely on where you choose to stay and how many meals you eat and where. It's not the same to stay in private accommodations and eat out every day as it is to cook your own meals and stay in municipal hostels.
For example, I spent approximately €25 to €35 per day, including accommodation, food, and drinks. For 32 days, the total was between €800 and €1120. I stayed mainly in hostels and ate out very little.
What to eat
There are many bars and cafes where you can sit and rest and have breakfast or lunch.
For lunch or dinner, pilgrim menus are the usual option. They typically include a starter, a main course, dessert, and bread, sometimes with wine or another beverage. Prices are around €12-15.
If you want to try something typical, in Melide there's a famous place to try the renowned Galician-style octopus at Pulpería Ezequiel. It's usually crowded and not cheap, but many pilgrims stop to try their famous dish.
But you don't need to eat in a restaurant. There are supermarkets where you can buy ready-made tortillas or cold cuts to make sandwiches. And you can always have breakfast or cook your own meals at the hostels.
How difficult is the Camino de Santiago
Among the more demanding stages, besides the first day crossing the Pyrenees, are the climb to O Cebreiro in Galicia and the stage that reaches the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point of the Camino Francés. Both involve significant climbs and can be tough, especially after several weeks of walking.
But keep in mind when planning your Camino that each region has something different to offer.
Some pilgrims prefer the landscapes and villages of Galicia or Castile and León, while others dread the Meseta Central, that long, mostly flat stretch that can sometimes feel monotonous. Personally, I think each section has its own charm, so I wouldn't skip any important part of the route.