Most people see Mljet as a rushed day trip from Dubrovnik. We gave it a full week in mid September, based in the little harbour village of Polače, and it stole our hearts: towering limestone mountains, turquoise water, Roman ruins, warm-hearted locals, the odd elusive mongoose and a couple of very cute hedgehogs.
There was time to hike, swim, snorkel and eat very well, and still time left over to just lie about and read.
Getting there
We came over from Korčula on the Kapetan Luka (Krilo) fast boat, which was super easy. We booked it through Ferryscanner. On the way out, the ferry left from right outside our room.
Where we stayed
We stayed in an Airbnb called Home in Polače, and I'd recommend it to anyone. The balcony looks straight out over the inlet, and you're right next to the local konobas and bars. The flat had everything we needed, including a kitchen, so we could cook for ourselves when we fancied a night in.
Marcela runs the listing and Linda and Polo look after guests on the ground, and all three were like family. They know the island inside out, pointed us to places we'd never have found, and made us feel completely at home.
Getting around
We walked almost everywhere, and you don't really need a bike or a car. That said, we hired a car for 24 hours to reach the remote parts of the island like Okuklje and Prožura, which you can really only get to by car or boat. The road in and out is very steep but well worth it.
It was the easiest car hire we've ever done. The car was delivered to our door, we signed one form, paid €50 and off we went.
The week, day by day
Day 1: Polače
We spent the first day finding our feet in Polače. We swam, snorkelled, had a long lunch and a few cocktails, wandered around the Roman ruins and just took it all in.
Day 2: Montokuc
From our door we climbed the steps up to the track for Mount Montokuc and hiked to the top. It took roughly an hour each way, and the 360 degree views from the summit are breathtaking. You can also come down a different way through Soline and loop back. We finished with some well-earned beers and a swim.
Day 3: Veliki Planjak
Our host Polo offered to drop us at the start of the trail up Veliki Planjak. The views from the top look out over the small surrounding islands, and there's a National Park cabin up there selling cold beer. We had the place to ourselves for a while, until four Australians appeared out of nowhere. We swapped stories over a rakija, the local plum brandy, then walked the 6km back to Polače.
Day 4: The car day
This was the day we hired the car, and it was a beautiful one: mountains, coves, bars and beaches. Lunch was at Porto Bella Vita in Okuklje, right on the water under the limestone mountains. We were the only tourists there and made the most of the local wine and food. It's a meal that will stay with us for years.
From there we crossed the island to the village of Prožura for a rum and the best local cake I've ever tasted, hrapoćuša, at Tavern Barba. Because we still had the car, we drove to Pomena for dinner at Ribari and watched the sunset over the water. On the way home we spotted two hedgehogs on the road.
Day 5: The monastery
We walked from Polače to the 12th century Benedictine monastery on St Mary's Island (Sveta Marija), in the lake inside the national park. It's roughly 4 to 6km each way and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours of easy to moderate walking. From the lake shore at Pristanište or Mali Most there's a short boat across to the island, free with your park pass. We had lunch there and wandered around.
Day 6: Storm day
A huge storm rolled in and we watched it build over the bay: thunder, lightning and a lot of much-needed rain. By now we'd worked out that the supermarket up the road is cheap for cheese, tomatoes, fresh bread, pršut and local dried figs, so we had a picnic on the bed and watched the storm from the balcony. Then we watched our first film in weeks of travelling, with the rain outside.
Day 7: Babine Kuće
Our ferry wasn't until later, so we walked to the little village of Babine Kuće. We swam in the lake, ate freshly caught fish, chatted to the locals, and were sad our week was over.
The national park
Tickets were easy to buy in Polače. We got a 7 day pass and carried it everywhere, because the rangers do check. It covers all the park's spots, including the lakes and the boat out to the island monastery.
Where we ate and drank
Our hosts' dinner. Linda and Polo cook a dinner for their guests. One of the best meals we had, and reasonably priced, but you have to be staying with them. They no longer run it as a restaurant.
Stella Maria, Polače. Right next door. Excellent calamari. We had the good wine, which is pricey.
Calypso, Polače. Just down the road, right on the water, with top service and good food. Spend a little extra for the good local wine, usually from Korčula. On the expensive side overall.
Mali Raj, Babine Kuće. A real treat. We shared a whole fish caught that morning and cooked over coals, with a view of the big lake. Given the beer, wine, rakija, fish, salad and potatoes, we thought it was a decent price.
Next door to Konoba Antika, Polače. Our spot for morning coffee and afternoon limoncello spritz, right on the water.
Porto Bella Vita, Okuklje; Tavern Barba, Prožura; Ribari, Pomena. All covered in the car day above, and all worth the drive.
What it cost and how busy it was
The accommodation was roughly AU$950 for 7 nights for the two of us. The car was €50 for 24 hours. Everything else depends on where you eat, because the waterfront places add up.
You can do it cheaply too. The Studenac supermarket a few doors down sells oats and fruit for breakfast, which we did a few mornings, plus fresh bread, cheese and salami for rainy day picnics.
In mid September, technically the tail end of the busy season, it wasn't busy at all. Very pleasant.
The verdict
If you want a laid-back, relaxed holiday, this is grand. If you want to throw in some hiking or biking, it's tops. If you want spectacular views, this is the place.
But if you want to shop and party, go somewhere else. You won't find that on Mljet.