We were in the Whitsundays and I was about to turn 30. The natural thing to do was to spend it in the Great Barrier Reef, as few people see it. My boyfriend and I were nearing the end of a lap of Australia, months of backpacking by campervan, and I was about to turn 30. That’s where the “ReefSleep” experience comes in. We'd first heard about it from other backpackers we met in Airlie Beach. Basically, this is an experience where you sleep in a swag on a pontoon (essentially a huge floating dock), completely off grid, in the middle of the reef. Bucket-list-worthy for me as a nature-lover.
Getting There
We'd booked ReefSleep through a travel agent in Airlie Beach, snagging a winter special at $1,400 AUD, and based ourselves on Hamilton Island, which felt like a lush, tropical oasis after traveling in our campervan for months on end. While it would normally be a bit more commercial and resort-y than the kinds of experiences we were after, it was a wonderful home base. The ferry from Hamilton Island out to the Hardy Reef where the pontoon is based is only a 2 hour ride (as opposed to 3 from mainland). As someone who gets seasick easily, this was key as the Coral Sea can get huge swells.
Luckily, the way out was smooth. On the boat, I got peer pressured from my boyfriend into giving scuba diving a shot (I have never been diving). I was adamant that I would panic and that it would be a waste of money, but with some reassurance from the crew, I gave in, telling them and my boyfriend that they’d look very silly when I had to bail due to panic.
The dive
As we arrived at the pontoon, lunch in the form of light wraps were served, which we quickly had before gearing up for the dive. We then got into the moon pool where I learned the basics. True to my word, I had a little panic, a little bit of hyperventilation creeping in, but the friendly team there was so patient in letting me get used to my new environment. When I was ready, we headed out for the real thing.
Out there in the reef, I was guided through beautiful coral, mostly staghorn, brain, and plate coral, past more fish than I thought possible. I saw a wobbegong shark that looked more like a mophead, and we stopped for a quick photo op with a huge (but chill) Maori Wrasse. I was feeling so incredibly glad I was able to get over my initial fear. I had been snorkeling plenty of times, but it was so incredible to be in the reef for a change, rather than viewing from above.
My boyfriend also enjoyed the experience, but for him it was a bit less exciting as he’s got a lot more experience diving, and while I benefitted from being guided around, he would have preferred to explore a bit independently. Nevertheless, we both agreed the Great Barrier Reef was awesome.
I was feeling incredibly accomplished as we got back to the pontoon. It was quite busy as the day-trippers and last night’s guests were still around, but it didn’t feel overly cramped. There was plenty of seating on the decks, plenty of drinks, and a snorkeling section. We set back out to do the semi-submarine tour. It was a slow activity, and I would recommend it to those with children as a chance to see the reef and learn about it. It might have felt a bit more exciting for us if we hadn’t already been up close and personal with the reef. It was an activity included with the stay, though, so we were happy to spend our time with it.
The Swag
Eventually the ferry left, taking last night’s guests with it, and after another snack we were able to “check in” to our swag on the upper deck. The swag felt like a glamping setup, a daybed complete with drawers as storage underneath. Each one faces the water.
We met a lovely couple who were staying in the premium “ReefSuites” or the below-water rooms, and they let us go down and have a look. The really cool thing about these suites is that directly across from the bed are floor to ceiling glass windows offering views of the many fish that pass by. The less cool thing about them is that there are only two suites, and they get booked out many months in advance. If, like us, you can’t get one of these rooms, don’t feel too sad, because you can spend as much time as you like in the underwater observatory, which also has floor to ceiling glass windows, giving you an incredible view of the many fish and turtles swimming past.
Happy with our swag, we set back out in an attempt to snorkel, but the staff had said it was time for more food. We felt well looked after, with drinks in hand. The only thing was that we were itching to get back in the water, and we were pleased when the crew eventually said that the snorkeling section would be open for use again.
The Snorkeling Experience
As I got down to the snorkeling platform, we could see a green sea turtle munching on some algae on the edge of the pontoon. He was entirely unbothered by our presence. Keeping a distance anyway, I got in. I had experience snorkeling in other regions of Australia, like Shark Bay and Ningaloo Reef, so I was no stranger to seeing lots of cool, colorful fish. What I was used to were schools of fish that would be very skittish at the slightest motion. What I wasn’t used to seeing, was hundreds of Giant Trevally, and they were prowling the outskirts of the pontoon. Creepy, but cool from a distance.
After getting pruny and exhausted, it was time to get back on the pontoon. And we were welcomed again with more food. Delicious canapés, to be precise. We enjoyed these with a drink, watching the sun start to set, looking out for the telltale sign of humpback whales: that bit of mist you can see out on the horizon. If you’re on the east coast of Australia during the winter, you’re very likely to see the humpbacks, as they make their way north to give birth in warm waters.
While chatting with others from our group, my boyfriend looked out to the water where he thought he saw a ray of some sort. With several of us gripping the edge of the railing to see, we came to a horrific realization that it was not in fact a ray, but a woman in the water, waving her arms in the air for help. We quickly alerted the crew who sprung right into action, jumping on a small boat to get to her fast. She was quite far away, almost at the next pontoon over (a private one for staff). It was a woman from our group, who must have been snorkeling on her own and couldn’t fight the current. Understandably, she was very shaken up. It was definitely a stark reminder to respect the ocean, and also the crew. We were annoyed earlier when the snorkeling section wasn’t open, but we definitely understood why by that time. If you’re going into the water, make sure someone’s aware.
Dinner
With a bit more of a serious mood, we headed down to dinner, which was set up for the group at a long table, family style. The chefs didn’t hold back on this one. Each guest received a steak, fish, or for the vegetarians, a pumpkin steak, seared expertly and served beautifully with broccolini. My partner is a vegetarian who doesn’t like pumpkin, so he felt a bit awkward, but it was entirely his fault as his only comment for food preferences was ‘vegetarian’. If we were to do the experience all over again he would have been a bit more specific. But we had been eating so frequently that it was a non-issue- it just felt like a shame. With my two pumpkin steaks, on the other hand, I was loving life.
After dinner, we headed down to check out the observatory. Even though it was dark by this time, the pontoon is decked out with underwater lights, enabling you to see any marine life that comes close enough to the window. A couple was already there, saying they saw a turtle munching on a jellyfish. Instant FOMO. We sat there for a long time, watching the fish zoom past and chatting with the others.
Sleeping Under the Stars
After a long time spent in the observatory, it was time to call it a night and finally see what the swag experience would be like. The wind out there is brutal, so I thought it would be freezing, but when the swag is zipped shut, it’s incredibly warm and toasty. Even though it was winter, we had even opened up the zip a bit to let cool air in. The really nice thing about all the wind was that we couldn’t hear a single thing. It felt like we were the only ones up there. It could be partially due to all the swimming and time spent in the sun, but it was surprisingly a peaceful sleep.
The next morning, we enjoyed a nice breakfast spread and the peace of knowing that we had the pontoon to our small group. The day trippers and next guests wouldn’t arrive until about 11. With this in mind we set out to snorkel again, where we met George, the 300kg Queensland Groper, who was hanging out on the side of the pontoon, and another green sea turtle, happy to swim around the snorkeling area with us.
Before we knew it, it was time to “check out” of our swags, so they could be made fresh for the next guests, and with great sadness we saw the ferry arrive. While the way there was smooth, on the way out the Coral Sea reminded us how choppy it could get. After some bad experiences in the past, I knew how to manage my seasickness effectively, mainly by looking out to the horizon, knowing when to get fresh air, and sticking to the back of the boat near the engine. I was managing fine in our little booth. As ReefSleep guests, we had a section to ourselves, away from the crowds coming for the day trip. Unfortunately, one of these day trippers was not handling her sea sickness. They brought her over to our booth where she covered her whole face with her sweater and started to lay down (i.e., exactly what not to do). It was a bit annoying as I was trying so hard on my own to keep it together, and she wasn’t helping, nor was she taking any advice from the staff. I did take pity on her though. Even if she was making it worse for herself, I know no one would willingly put themselves through that level of discomfort.
Luckily, she didn’t spew everywhere, and I was feeling too elated from the last 24hrs to let the rough trip back to Hamilton Island ruin it. As far as milestone birthdays go, this one was definitely a success. 30 didn’t seem too bad.
Considerations
If you’re thinking about trying ReefSleep, here are some considerations, and if you want the full curated breakdown, Not Your Average Stays covers it here.
Nothing will prepare you for how windy it is. Even though you’re in the tropics, you’ll need something to keep warm at night and for those moments coming out of the water.
Diving is completely optional, but I’d recommend getting in the reef. If you’re new to diving, this is an excellent introductory experience. If you’re an experienced diver, though, I’d recommend checking out the certified dive.
Be smart in the water. Don’t think you can fight a powerful current. Keep close to the pontoon and others.
The pontoon is completely off grid. You will have access to power, but that’s about it.
This isn’t a luxury experience with a king bed and feather pillows on request, but you will feel well looked out for by the crew and the chefs.
Winter is the best time to visit as it’s the middle of the dry season, and as an added bonus, it aligns with the Humpback Highway.
Don’t let getting seasick stop you from doing this experience, but also prepare yourself on how to manage it.